Hair Color
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07.20.2021
How to Cover Gray Hair with Highlights
When clients start to see gray hair coming through, they typically choose one of three options: enhancing the silver, leaving it be or opting to cover gray roots. If they’re in the latter group and they want a natural look, you can actually use highlights to blend their gray hair, sweeping brighter ribbons through locks to disguise those silvery strays. The result? A dreamy, seamless finish for salt and pepper strands; a multi-tonal effect that flatters everyone, from blondes to redheads to brunettes. Here’s how…
CAN GRAY HAIR BE HIGHLIGHTED?
Yes, gray hair can be highlighted. Just keep in mind that, when you’re highlighting gray locks, the goal is to blend silver strays and create an ultra-natural finish. This can sometimes mean you’re not applying lightener directly onto every gray hair, but lightening the strands around them instead, which can help silver pieces appear imperceptible.
So, what are the benefits? First up, it means that clients who love highlights but want to blend gray hair can get coverage, all without losing that lust-worthy, light-reflective glow. Blending gray hair with highlights can also look more natural and youthful than a one-shade process, and make locks appear thicker. Put simply, the benefits are limitless.
Image Credit: @salonghypehallarna
IS IT BETTER TO HIGHLIGHT OR COLOR GRAY HAIR?
The answer to this depends on the kind of coverage and finish your client wants. Are they going for a block-out-every-white-hair effect or do they hope to seamlessly blend grays away? Here’s how to know when you should be reaching for the foils…
Color gray hairs if… your client wants a root shadow that touches every gray, or they simply prefer wearing the same rich, lustrous shade all through their hair. Not everyone wants highlights, so the other option is to cover gray hair using a demi-permanent, semi-permanent or permanent formula. This will allow them to camouflage salt and pepper strands, while creating a uniform finish.
Highlight gray hairs if… your client has highlighted hair they hope to maintain, or they’re keen to try highlights for the first time in a bid to make silver strays less noticeable. Those who want complete coverage and highlights might find a double process is best. That means root shadow first, followed by a scattering of multi-tonal ‘lights.
Image Credit: @guleonidaspro
HOW DO YOU BLEND GRAY HAIR WITH HIGHLIGHTS?
These days, there are seemingly endless ways to apply highlights. From balayage to babylights, we’ve got plenty of techniques at our disposal – each one offering its own, uniquely flattering effect. And, while not every process is perfectly suited to disguising gray hair, many can be adapted to meet your client’s desired effect. Here are four to try…
1. TRADITIONAL HIGHLIGHTS FOR GRAY HAIR
Traditional but never boring; classic highlights are applied from root to tip in an even pattern, then processed in foils to achieve a bright, luminous lift. Because they usually start at the root, they allow you to break up gray regrowth with a few lighter pieces, while giving the hair movement and dimension. If you’re working with blonde highlights, look to cooler tones, like ash or icy blonde. This way, they’ll be closer in tone to those natural silver, white and gray strands.
2. BALAYAGE FOR GRAY HAIR
It’s a myth that balayage should only be swept through the mid-lengths and ends of hair. In fact, a few strokes starting at the roots can create a youthful, sun-kissed glow. Try placing some brighter pieces through the parting or temples with Blondor Freelights. It’s the go-to trick for clients with a low volume of gray hair that they want to lightly blend.
3. LOWLIGHTS FOR GRAY HAIR
Like highlights, lowlights can also be used to disguise gray hair. In fact, they’re perfect for covering gray on brown or red hair for those clients who worry blonde ‘lights will look unnatural. Tactically place them over gray strands to add richness and depth, using a demi-permanent color like Color Touch or – for complete coverage – try permanent Koleston Perfect.
4. BABYLIGHTS FOR GRAY HAIR
Micro-fine highlights – aka babylights – are ideal for clients hoping to veil over a low volume of wispy grays. They mimic the sun-dappled, natural highlights you used to get on childhood vacations, and are just delicate enough to blend small, silver strands away. For coverage on heavier regrowth, you can also paint the babylights back-to-back, like @vivid.af did (below), so there’s almost no gap between each ribbon.
MORE TIPS TO DISGUISE GRAY HAIR WITH HIGHLIGHTS
For more tips on highlights to blend gray hair, watch these videos – notebook and pen at the ready…
WATCH: HOW TO BLEND GRAY HAIR WITH HIGHLIGHTS
WATCH: QUICK TIPS ON GRAY COVERAGE WITH KOLESTON PERFECT
COLORING GRAY HAIR WITH HIGHLIGHTS: THE AFTER-CARE
Like all colored hair, highlighted grays need nourishing after-care. Ensure clients know exactly how to keep their ‘lights looking luminous when they leave the salon…
1. SHAKE UP SHAMPOO
Remind clients that not just any shampoo will do on highlighted hair. One that’s tailored to colored locks will keep ‘lights looking radiant for longer. Try ColorMotion+ Color Protection Shampoo, which is specially formulated with antioxidants to protect against dulling free radicals.
2. TRY DEEPER TREATMENTS
As we get older, our scalp produces less oil, which is why gray locks can sometimes feel coarse in texture. Clients who find their hair drier than usual should consider swapping their traditional conditioner for a mask. We love the ColorMotion+ Structure+ Mask for just-highlighted hair.
3. TURN DOWN THE HEAT
As we all know, heat styling can make hair color fade a little faster. However, not every client is ready to hang up their hair dryer or curling iron. In that case, suggest they use heat protection to safeguard strands as they style. EIMI Thermal Image is a lightweight mist that can be spritzed from root to tip through just-washed hair. Easy.