Hair Color
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10.01.2024
5 Salon Secrets to Achieve the Perfect Copper
By: Jaclyn Harwood
Copper tones bring warmth and vibrancy to any look, but achieving the perfect shade, depth and balance is not always an easy task. Learn the art of shade selection, formulation and application, tailored to the unique characteristics of every salon guest. Follow along as we reveal five salon secrets to effortlessly achieve the perfect copper hue.
CLEANSE + CLARIFY
Pre-treating and cleansing the hair is an essential step when preparing the hair canvas for color. Remove product buildup, balance pH levels, improve color adhesion, enhance porosity and extend color longevity. Over time, hair may accumulate unnecessary oils, conditioners, minerals and styling products, creating a barrier that prevents color from penetrating the hair shaft effectively. Schedule time for a pre-treatment service at the salon prior to color application. We recommend Wella Professionals Elements Renewing Shampoo to reveal the hair’s natural shine and gently remove any buildup. Apply, lather, and cleanse all areas of the head form, focusing on the hairline for any additional buildup from makeup, perspiration or mineral products. Rinse and follow with Sebastian Professional Penetraitt Conditioner to restore moisture, balance porosity and transform the hair from dry and dull, to soft and silky. Blowdry the hair and proceed with color application. Limited time at the salon? No stress! Retail the recommended shampoo and conditioner to your salon guest. Instruct them to cleanse, clarify and dry, prior to their arrival at the salon.
PRE-LIGHTEN
Enhance color vibrancy and create a solid foundation for the perfect copper by pre-lightening the hair. Utilize the natural undertones exposed during the lightening process as a "base" for your color application. Levels 6,7 and 8 are recommended target levels to achieve the perfect foundational hue. Customize the look and placement of your pre-lightening application for every salon guest. Try Wella Professionals Freelights Hair Lightener Powder, for open-air techniques or Wella Professionals Blondor Multi Blonde or Wella Professionals BlondorPlex for isolated applications. Once the desired level of lift is achieved, shampoo, condition, treat and blowdry. Proceed with your next steps in the color application.
FORMULATION
Formulation is a key step when looking to achieve the perfect salon hue. Starting level, target level, percentage of gray and underlying pigment at the target level are ALL important considerations. When looking to achieve the perfect copper hue, consider the application for three areas of the hair strand: Base, Mid-Strands, and Ends. It is important to recognize how each area accepts and responds to color based upon their unique characteristics.
Base Considerations: Gray or white hair. New growth. Not fully keratinized. Heat from the headform. Virgin hair. Copper Formulation Recommendations: Incorporate a gray coverage family shade within the formula (if necessary). Base color + selected copper shade to balance vibrancy OR a pure copper tone to maximize vibrancy.
Mid-Strand Considerations: Cold shaft. Previous chemical services. Mechanical damage. Copper Formulation Recommendations: Consider utilizing a higher developer within the formulation to encourage lift, warmth and vibrancy: Wella Professionals Welloxon Perfect Creme Developer 6% (20 volume), 9% (30 volume), or 12% (40 volume).
Ends Considerations: Porosity. Previous chemical services. Mechanical damage. Split ends. Copper Formulation Recommendations: Consider incorporating CLEAR within the copper formula or a lighter level shade with a similar tonal reflect to achieve a balanced color result, base to ends. Clear Opportunities: Wella Professionals Color Touch Special Mix 0/00 Clear, Wella Professionals Shinefinity, Zero Lift Glaze 00/00 Clear (Crystal Glaze), or Wella Professionals Koleston Perfect Special Mix 0/00 Pure Shine, Permanent.
DOUBLE DIPPING
One of our favorite salon secrets to achieve the perfect copper hue is a double process color. A second glaze, gloss or "double dip" adds an extra level of saturation, depth, vibrancy and degree of perfection to the final result. Consider this tip and "extra step" when scheduling your salon guest, creating your salon menu and pricing your salon services. Achieve the look with Wella Professionals Color Touch Demi Permanent Color, or Wella Professionals Shinefinity Zero Lift Glaze.
COLOR CARE + MAINTENANCE
Recommend haircare and deep conditioning treatments to your salon guests that are specifically crafted for color treated hair. The key to longevity and color vibrancy is the balance of strength and moisture. A few of our favorites are: Wella Professionals Color Motion+ Shampoo and Conditioner, Wella Professionals INVIGO Brilliance Shampoo and Conditioner and Wella Professionals Ultimate Repair Shampoo and Conditioner.
Deep Conditioning Treatment Recommendations: Wella Professionals Ultimate Repair Miracle Hair Rescue, Wella Professionals Fusion Intense Repair Mask and Wella Professionals WellaPlex No. 3 Hair Stabilizer.
Color Depositing Treatments for Copper Hair: Wella Professionals Color Fresh Mask Copper Glow, Color Fresh Mask Red, Color Fresh Mask Caramel Glaze and Color Fresh Mask Golden Gloss.
STAY CONNECTED
Follow Wellastore on Instagram @wellastoreusa for inspiration, education, product knowledge and #PROTIPS. Learn from salon professionals around the globe and tag @wellastoreusa in your trendsetting looks for a chance to be featured. Don't forget to include your Wella Professionals color formula and any additional haircare and styling details we can include in the post. Happy Coloring! We can't wait to see what you create next.
