Hair Color
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01.22.2020
Lightening Gray Hair with Blondor
Most of the time, our clients begin going gray in the front of the head. As their gray percentage increases, you may be wondering where to start your lightener application. For all-over lightening application, if the client is 0% gray or 75% gray, you should still begin applying lightener in the back. This is where the most pigmented hair lives and will take longer to lift through underlying pigment to reach the desired level of lift.
Keep in mind, every client is situational and needs a thorough consultation to begin, but this is a general recommendation from Wella Top Artist, Aubrey Loots. In this video, he is lightening hair 4+ levels lighter with Blondor and WellaPlex. While this model does not have gray hair, tune in to see why he would approach the application the exact same way.
For full-head lightening applications, no matter the percentage of gray, remember low and slow! Low volume developer, beginning at the nape of the neck and begin applying from mid-lengths to ends with Blondor Multi-Blonde Powder and 20 volume Welloxon developer. The closer the lightener to the scalp, the faster the lightener will lift, so be aware where to start applying if the client has pre-existing color or natural regrowth. Aubrey recommends increasing the developer to 30 volume when he is nearing the end of the application, or mixing his last bowl of lightener.
Another #protip , please always measure your lightener! Your end result will make a huge difference, it will also make a difference in your product application. When you are eyeballing lightener and developer instead of weighing, you will notice the lightener prematurely swelling which can alter your end result.