Hair Color
Creativity is at the core of what we do. To help you stay inspired, we created a hub with all your hair color needs. Our blog covers the latest trends, formulas, professional tips and inspiration.
06.09.2019
HIGHLIGHTS VS. LOWLIGHTS: WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE?
When it comes to adding dimension to your clients’ locks, there are two key techniques to choose from: highlighting for luminosity and lift, or lowlighting for richness and depth. But when it comes to highlights vs. lowlights, how do you know which will suit your client best? Keep scrolling for all the details on how to add a scattering of natural-looking, flattering tones—and discover the difference between highlights and lowlights.
What Are Highlights?
Simply put, highlights are strands of hair that are lifted to be a few shades lighter than the base. They brighten up areas of the hair, whether you opt for just one level of lift or a more contrasting effect. Highlights work on any base color—from blonde shades to bold reds and even dark brunettes—adding light-boosting luminosity that flatters everyone. These highlights can be applied in a variety of styles, whether painted on from root to tip or feathered toward the root to create a soft, sun-kissed balayage finish. Balayage is an ultra-creative technique that allows you to personalize your client’s look with open-air, freehand lightening and, sometimes, a scattering of highlights in foils. This technique—called "foilyage"—offers greater lightening power, so you can add extra brightness wherever your client desires. As for the level of lift, this depends on the final look your client wants, but we typically suggest staying within three levels of the base color for the most natural transition. For example, redheads may be enhanced with lighter coppery tones, while highlights for brown hair could have a warm, caramel blonde feel.
What Are Lowlights?
Lowlights take the base color deeper. They’re added when your client wants a little extra depth in their hair and can be used to neutralize brassy tones or correct color that’s been lifted too light. Unlike highlights, they’re typically achieved with a demi-permanent color, toner, or gloss instead of a pre-lightener, which means lowlights are also a gentler option—ideal for clients with sensitized hair. You can apply lowlights from root to tip or use a reverse balayage technique, which involves painting deeper shades through the mid-lengths and ends to break up the base color. On bright blondes, this might mean adding honey blonde hues to lend a little warmth, while on light brown hair, slices of dark chocolate brown enhance the richness of the locks and boost shine. As for which shade to use, we love demi-permanent Color Touch for creating lowlights. It’s a gentler option that fades nicely for clients who aren’t ready to commit fully to a darker look. You could also try permanent Koleston Perfect. Not only does it deliver pure pigment and shine, but it also gives you up to 100% gray coverage. This is perfect if your client has any silver hair they want to disguise, as you can tactically paint on lowlights to cover those very first signs of gray.
What Are Babylights?
You can’t talk about highlights and lowlights without mentioning the babylights technique. Babylights can go high for lift or low for depth, but they should always appear micro-fine and subtle. The clue’s in the name with this one: the highlights are ‘baby-sized’ because color is painted onto much smaller sections of hair, using a fine-toothed weaving comb to neatly section off the strands. Opt for babylights when you want highlights or lowlights to appear virtually undetectable, creating the subtlest color shift that looks entirely natural.
What’s the Difference Between Highlights and Lowlights?
Now you’ve got the full lowdown on highlights and lowlights, let’s break down some of the key differences, from the types of formulas you should use to the finished look you’ll achieve…
- Highlights show up more on dark hair, while lowlights appear more prominent through lighter locks.You can apply lowlights to dark hair and scatter highlights through an already-blonde base, but you’ll typically see a bigger impact when there’s a strong contrast in tones. For example, lowlights are great for softening hair that’s become too blonde, while highlights look ultra-glowy when swept through a deep brunette mane.
- They require contrasting color formulas.While lowlights are typically achieved using a toner or gloss, highlights usually require a pre-lightener, like those in our award-winning Blondor portfolio. In some cases, you can use a permanent color for highlights, as long as it’s a product capable of lightening the hair. For that, our top pick is Koleston Perfect paired with Welloxon Perfect developer, which can deliver up to five levels of lift on natural, virgin hair.
- Lowlights tend to be gentler than highlights.Because lowlights don’t require pre-lightener, they’re the kinder option for hair that’s prone to breakage and dryness. However, adding WellaPlex to any color service – highlights or lowlights – will lessen the damage and strengthen bonds within the hair. Problem solved.
Ways to Work Highlights and Lowlights
1. Highlights on Blonde Hair
Image Credit: @lafemmesalong via @wellanordic
This is an example of highlights done right. A balayage technique was used, with Blondor + Welloxon Perfect Developer 9% (30 vol.) applied through the mid-lengths, ends, and face-framing front layers. The highlights were then toned using equal parts Koleston Perfect 10/86 and 10/95, mixed with Welloxon Perfect Pastel 1.9% (6 vol.). The result? Beachy brightness any surfer would envy.
2. Highlights on Red Hair
Image Credit: @izziedavishair
Copper hair gets a strawberry blonde twist in this highlighted masterpiece, perfected by Isobel Davis. Her formula? Color Touch 8/43 + 0/34, applied after subtle highlights to create a seamless blend. This is the kind of finish you should aim for when applying highlights to red hair: subtle, soft, and—above all—totally seamless.
3. Highlights on Brown Hair
Image Credit: @made_by_marina
This is why we say highlights look more natural when you lift no more than three shades lighter than the base—because staying within these levels gives you the most delicious caramel finish on brown hair. Marina Madain nailed it using Blondor with 6% (20 vol.) to create the highlights, which were then toned to perfection with Color Touch: 8/81 + 9/16 + Color Touch 1.9% Emulsion.
4. Lowlights on Blonde Hair
Image Credit: @kellynaso
On hair that had been taken too blonde, Kelly Naso performed a reverse balayage with deep brown lowlights, using demi-permanent Color Touch Plus 66/07 + Color Touch 1.9% Emulsion in a 1:2 ratio. This is a great technique for hair that’s over-processed and lighter than the client prefers, as the wider ribbons of brown break up the highlights beautifully.
#GETSOCIAL
Inspired to learn more? Follow Wellastore.com on Instagram (@wellastoreusa) for education, #ProTips and industry secrets. Learn from top salon professionals around the globe and tag us for a chance to be featured on our page and blog. Be the first to know about exclusive promos, LIVE education, plus take a front seat to everything Wellastore. We can't wait to see what you create.
Related articles
06.03.2025
Top In-Salon and At Home Hair Treatments
06.03.2025
7 Chocolate Cherry Hair Ideas & Formulas
06.03.2025