Copper vs. Red: How to Create the Best Formula for Every Client

UNDERSTANDING COPPER VS. RED

• COPPER HAIR: Copper shades are warm and often contain a mix of orange, gold, and red undertones. The result is a bright, fiery, and bold look that tends to be more vibrant than red shades. Copper hair can range from a soft strawberry blonde to a deep, rich amber, making it a versatile option for clients who want to add warmth to their complexion.
• RED HAIR: Red hair, on the other hand, comes in a variety of deeper, more intense hues. Red shades can range from deep auburn to fiery crimson and everything in between. While copper tends to focus on orange and gold undertones, red hair can lean more toward burgundy, ruby, or even violet undertones. Red is a bolder choice and often provides a more dramatic effect.

CHOOSING THE RIGHT SHADE FOR YOUR CLIENT

1. FAIR SKIN WITH WARM UNDERTONES

2. FAIR SKIN WITH COOL UNDERTONES

3. MEDIUM TO OLIVE SKIN TONES

4. TAN TO DEEP SKIN TONES

CUSTOMIZING YOUR COPPER + RED FORMULAS

1. START WITH A BASE SHADE: Whether you’re formulating a copper or red, always start with a base shade that matches your client’s natural color. This base will serve as the foundation for your formulation and help the color blend naturally with their existing hair. #PROTIP: It's important to consider depth and gray coverage when formulating. One of our favorite go-to color family is Wella Professionals Koleston Perfect Pure Naturals and Rich Naturals.
2. DETERMINE THE INTENSITY: Depending on your client’s preferences, you can adjust the intensity of the color. Lighter clients may opt for a more subtle copper, while deeper reds may be ideal for those who want a dramatic change. For clients with darker hair, you may need to lighten the hair first before applying the red or copper shade to ensure it shows up vibrantly.
3. TONE ADJUSTMENT: If your client has previously colored or lightened hair, you will need to account for any existing tones. Copper shades may need additional warmth if the hair has underlying ash tones, while red hues may require extra depth to counterbalance any brassiness. Consider "filling" the hair with Wella Professionals Color Touch, if needed.
4. MIX FOR PERFECTION: Copper hair often benefits from a mix of orange, gold, and red tones to create depth and vibrancy. Red hair, on the other hand, may need a combination of red, violet, or brown undertones to achieve the desired richness. Work with different color mixes to find the perfect balance for your client’s complexion.
5. CONSIDER HAIR HEALTH: Always take into account your client’s hair health when formulating the color. Damaged hair may require a gentle formula or more conditioning treatments to ensure the color is balanced and maintains vibrancy.

APPLICATION TIPS FOR COPPERS + REDS

• PRE-LIGHTEN: For clients with darker hair, pre-lightening may be necessary before applying copper or red shades to achieve the desired vibrancy. Always assess the hair’s condition before lightening to avoid excessive damage.
• PROCESSING TIME: Red and copper tones tend to fade faster than cooler shades, so be sure to recommend products that help maintain vibrancy, such as color safe shampoos and conditioners formulated for color-treated hair.
• AFTERCARE: Advise your clients to use color safe shampoos, deep conditioners and heat protectants, to prolong the life of their color. A few of our favorites are: Wella Professionals ColorMotion+, Ultimate Repair and INVIGO Brilliance. Recommend your salon guests avoid excessive sun exposure or swimming in chlorinated water, to maintain color vibrancy. #PROTIP: Recommend Wella Professionals Color Fresh Mask Copper Glow, or Red to your salon guests to keep their color vibrant at home and maintain the look until their next salon visit.

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