Hair Color
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05.05.2020
How To Fix Banding
Sonya Dove is the queen of minimal placement for maximum effect. She was recently interviewed by Masters of Balayage founder, Ryan Weeden, on how to fix your clients’ hair that may have gotten a little bored during social distancing. Read below for Sonya’s #PROTIPS to correcting banding and box color:
BEFORE YOU START
CONSULTATION:
Add 10 minutes to each of your appointments for a more thorough consultation, you should expect to need a little more time with each of them, especially if you have not seen them in months.
STRAND TEST:
While you are consulting with your client, tell them you are going to do a strand test which will take 5 minutes during the consultation. Mix Blondor + 40 VOL, apply to a tiny section of hair in the back and fold in a foil. Open the foil after 5 minutes, the results will tell you which volume you will be able to use on the rest of the hair. Sonya usually always color corrects with 20 VOL or lower. Spray the lightener off of the hair strand with water.
HOW TO FIX BANDING
APPLICATION:
The best correction for banding is to take a horizontal application (not sectioning) approach. For example, highlight in fine weave sections across the band or hand painting in fine weaves but do not use slices. Your application of lightener will be applied from the root down which will break up the banding. Even though you will cover more surface area with slicing, you will not break up the banding as much as weaving.
FOIL SECTIONING:
Section in a U-Shaped from temple to temple. You will highlight the top section with about 15 foils, if needed also add two side sections in front of the ears. If the hair is thick, you will be weaving 50% of the hair into a foil. Open your foils throughout the process, if there are sections that are not lifting evenly, you can mix and apply Blondor with a higher volume developer and apply to those darker areas.
THE REST OF THE HAIR:
Look for the darkest level in the rest of the hair using a level finder, then formulate one level lighter than the desired result. You will apply this formula in between the foils and on the rest of the hair. This approach will diffuse the dark bands but keep the base darker than the highlights.
PRODUCT MOST OFTEN USED:
Sonya uses Blondor Multi Blonde Powder + Welloxon 10 Vol or 20 Vol and repeats the process in 4-6 weeks if needed, sometimes twice.
FOR ALL OVER DARK HAIR AND THEY WANT HIGHLIGHTS:
Color Renew is a Vitamin C concentrate that reduces artificial oxidative hair color on the client’s hair. You will mix Color Renew Crystal Powder and Activator Liquid, apply all over (starting at the darkest places first), and then put the client under the dryer for 30-40 minutes, then shampoo. This will reduce some to most of the artificial permanent hair color without lifting the client’s natural level. #PROTIP after a color renew service, formulate with one shade lighter than your desired result.
TONING:
Sonya prefers to tone at levels 8, 9, and 10 only. Applying a toner at these lighter levels will keep all of the color correction work that you just completed light enough for the next another session if needed. You do not want to go too dark and cover your work!