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01.22.2026
Reverse Balayage 101: Tips, Tricks & Pro Formulas
By: Zara Kenyon
Reverse balayage is turning everyone's favorite freehand technique on its head, swapping lightness for lowlights and brightness for depth to create an overall darker look. But what exactly is it, and how can you create the look for your salon clients? Here's your ultimate guide to reverse balayage, including salon formulas to help you bring the trend to life...
What is a Reverse Balayage?
A reverse balayage adopts the same freehand painting as a traditional balayage, but instead of adding lightness, it's all about boosting dimension and depth. This application technique is designed for clients who have a previously lightened (or naturally light) base color, and are looking to transition to a darker tone with a more natural-looking finish.
What is the Difference Between Reverse Balayage and Full Balayage?
A traditional, full balayage is usually hand-painted with a lightener, like Blondor Freelights, bestowing a dark base color with a burst of brightness that adorns mid-lengths and ends. Meanwhile, reverse balayage still follows a freehand application technique, but the products and placement differ. You apply a toner in a darker shade than the base, sweeping it through the lengths and ends in painterly lowlights. This same shade can also be used to add a root shadow, tying the look together. Try to match your client's natural root shade here, and they'll enjoy lower-maintenance results with soft regrowth.
What is the Difference Between Lowlights and Reverse Balayage?
Lowlights and reverse balayage both involve painting darker tones through a light base shade, but the difference is in the technique you use to apply them. Lowlights are traditionally applied in a pattern from root to tip, much like highlights, while reverse balayage is focused through the roots, mid-lengths and ends for a truly bespoke finish. Both are effective solutions for breaking up brightness and boosting dimension, but reverse balayage lends a more lived-in and sometimes sun-kissed look.
Is a Reverse Balayage a Cheaper Option for Clients?
Yes – reverse balayage can be a cheaper option for clients than a full balayage. This is because you skip any lightening steps, cutting down on both time and product. However, there are three things you still need to consider:
1. Reverse balayage is not an alternative to balayage. The outcome is very different, so your client has to want to go darker in order for this to be a budget-friendly option.
2. Your client needs some existing lightness for a reverse balayage to work. If they already have dark hair, a traditional balayage may be a better option for giving hair more dimension.
3. Although you may be using less product than you would with a balayage (color + optional glaze instead of root shadow + lightener + toner), you should still account for the time and skill it takes to do any kind of freehand technique. Understanding which shades to use and what placement to follow is an art form, so don't undersell your time and expertise.
Who is a Reverse Balayage Best Suited To?
Recommend a reverse balayage to clients who:
- have previously lightened hair (or naturally light hair) and want to embrace dark tones;
- would like to transition away from using hair lightener to create a multi-tonal effect;
- want to break up an all-over blonde hair color to give it dimension and movement;
- are looking for a gentle approach to future color sessions. A Shinefinity Color Glaze is their solution for zero-damage color with shine you can feel.
What Hair Colors Work Best with a Reverse Balayage?
Almost any hair color works well with a reverse balayage hair coloring technique, as long as your client has enough lightness in their base to let the lowlights stand out. This means a very dark brown base won't work, but any shade lighter than a medium brown can, with blonde being one of the most popular foundations for a reverse balayage color application.
As for colors to paint with, golden, chocolate or ash browns make great lowlight hues, and if your client is a very light blonde, biscuit blonde colors will also lend elegant depth. But you're not restricted to blondes and browns; redheads can also work this look, with auburn tones helping to break up a fiery copper, and gingers bringing movement to a strawberry blonde. Your aim is to harmonize contrast, choosing colors that are distinct while complementing one another.
How Long Does a Reverse Balayage Last?
All hair colors – even permanent shades – will gradually fade over time, but how soon this happens depends on the color product you choose for your client. A permanent formula, like Koleston Perfect, will give them the longest-lasting freehand lowlights, with depth and dimension that lasts for anywhere between 6-12 weeks. Meanwhile, the true-to-tone vibrancy and shine of Color Touch fades beautifully over 28 washes. To keep their reverse balayage looking fresh, suggest your client returns for toning sessions every 7-8 weeks.
5 Reverse Balayage Formulas to Try
1. Bronde Reverse Balayage
Bringing bronde energy to a formerly blonde look, this reverse balayage was created with the magic of Color Touch for depth that appears vibrant and full of shine. We know that brown-blonde shades are big news right now, so if your light-haired client is looking to make the transition, try adding toffee-toned lowlights to their mid-lengths, ends and roots. Image Credit: @kianna.hair
Formula:
- Toner: Color Touch 5/0 + 5/1
2. Ash Brown Reverse Balayage
Take your client from ash blonde to ash brown by hand-painting dark brunette tones through highlighted hair, resulting in this indulgent 'cookies and cream' effect. The intensity of Koleston Perfect ensures a show-stopping finish, giving you (and your client) pure, balanced results with natural highs and lows that keep tonality intact. Image Credit: @sachaleehair
Formula:
- Lowlights: Koleston Perfect 6/0 + 6/7
3. Caramel Brown Reverse Balayage
This client used to have a full-head of caramel blonde highlights, but sweeps of brown through the lengths and roots have given the overall look a softer, more natural feel. The Color Touch lowlights have broken up the blonde, locking in lower-commitment hair color. No more harsh demarcation lines; this is a great strategy for a bronde with easy maintenance. Image Credit: @danielmbeauty
Formula:
- Lowlights: Color Touch 5/97 + 7/71
- Toner: Koleston Perfect 7/73 + 9/05
4. Dark Brunette Reverse Balayage
This dimensional look started out as a grown-out balayage with lighter ends, and now it's a deep, dark brunette that still retains some chocolatey highlights. A root melt ensures the lowlights blend in seamlessly, creating a soft transition from root to tip. The result is a rich, glossy brunette with natural movement and subtle contrast – perfect for clients who want to return to a darker shade without losing the multi-tonal feel of their previous balayage. Image Credit: @jadahairandbalayage
Formula:
- Root melt: Color Touch 4/0 + 5/73
- Mid-lengths to ends: Color Touch 6/77 + 6/73 + 8/71
5. Toffee Honey Reverse Balayage
Honey blonde highlights are transformed with a touch of toffee-toned lowlights, so if your blonde client wants depth and sweetness in one hair look, try this hand-painting technique. Leave chunky honey ribbons exposed, so you get a piecey finish with plenty of movement. The contrast between the warm toffee tones and golden highlights creates a sunlit shimmer that sparkles year-round.
Formula:
- Lowlights: Color Touch 7/03
- Toner: Color Touch 9/73 + 8/0
Reverse balayage is a low-maintenance way to reintroduce richness and movement into lightened hair. Whether your client wants to soften an over-bright blonde or embrace a cozy fall shade, it delivers effortless dimension every time.
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