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01.22.2025
Salon Secrets: 5 Techniques to Keep Blonde Hair Brass-Free
By: Jaclyn Harwood
As a salon professional, keeping your blonde clients' brass-free is one of the most important aspects of achieving a long-lasting, vibrant color. Whether it's icy platinum or golden blonde, eliminating unwanted brassiness is key to ensuring your clients leave the salon with a flawless, natural-looking color. Follow along as we share five expert techniques, and pro formulas, to help you maintain that perfect blonde while preventing brass.
1. Product Selection + Lightening
When it comes to achieving and maintaining brass-free blonde hair, selecting the right products is crucial. The process starts with choosing the appropriate lightener. Using a product that lifts too slowly, too quickly or too harshly can leave behind unwanted warmth and undesirable results. For controlled, even lightening, opt for a powder lightener, like Wella Professionals Blondor or BlondorPlex, or a cream lightener like Soft Blonde Cream, mixed with a low-volume developer, like Welloxon Perfect Pastel 1.9% (6 volume), 3% (10 volume) or 6% (20 volume). "Low and Slow" will allow you to gradually lift the hair without over-processing or causing excessive brassiness. Additionally, always use products that are specifically designed for lightening, as they often contain ingredients formulated to minimize yellow and orange undertones throughout the lightening process. #PROTIP: Reach for MAGMA by Blondor /89+ to lift and tone in one single step. Magma features Spectralift technology, a special combination of lightening molecules that evenly distribute into the hair to gradually lift both melanin and dye molecules. In parallel, a fine blend of advanced color pigments, specially designed to work in combination with lighteners, gently deposits on the hair surface.
2. Pre-Tone to Neutralize Undertones
When met with an excessive amount of brass, the art of pre-toning helps to reduce warmth and prep the hair for additional color treatments. Before applying your color, use a pre-toning treatment to neutralize any underlying yellow or orange tones. This step creates a clean canvas, allowing your blonde to shine bright without interference from brass in your final finish. #PROTIP: Before formulating, dry the hair and analyze the true undertones present. It may surprise you the tonal difference you see when the hair is wet vs. dry.
Formula Recommendations:
For clients with very warm undertones, use a violet or blue-based toner like Wella Professionals Color Touch 10/6 or 8/81 + Emulsion 1.9% (6 volume) in a 1:2 mixing ratio. This helps counteract yellow and orange hues, leaving a more neutral base for your blonde. Remember to tone at the level you have lightened to for maximum saturation and neutralization.
3. Add Cool + Warm Tones to Your Formula
Achieving a bright, balanced blonde requires a careful mix of cool and warm tones within your color formula. While cool tones are essential for neutralizing brassiness, incorporating a touch of warmth can help create depth and dimension, ensuring your blonde doesn’t appear flat or too ashy. For example, when formulating for a client who prefers a platinum blonde but still wants some natural warmth, blend a cool ash tone, like Color Touch 9/16 or 9/96, with a soft golden or beige blonde, like Color Touch 9/97 or 9/03 . This balance allows for a vibrant, dimensional color that’s free of brass without looking too cool or unnatural. By adjusting the ratio of cool to warm tones in your formula, you can tailor the result to each client’s preferences and ensure they leave with a balanced blonde that maintains its brightness.
4. Violet Shampoo + Mask
Sending your salon guests home with a violet shampoo and color-depositing mask is a game-changer in maintaining brass-free blonde hair. These treatments are designed to neutralize yellow tones and keep blondes looking fresh between salon visits. Recommend Wella Professionals INVIGO Blonde Recharge Color Refreshing Shampoo to maintain brightness and vibrancy of natural or highlighted b5londes. Or Wella Professionals Color Fresh Mask Pearl Blonde or Lilac Frost to tone and condition in just 10 minutes with zero-damage.
5. Regular Glazing Services to Seal the Tone
Regular glazing is a must for blonde hair, helping to seal in the tone and add beautiful shine. It’s an easy way to maintain the integrity of your blonde clients’ color while keeping brass at bay. Re-book your salon guest every 4-6 weeks for a Shinefinity Glaze service. Analyze the hair every consultation and formulate based upon any unwanted undertones your guest is looking to neutralize. Don't be afraid to refer to the Color Wheel, if needed, to determine the best tones for your formula. Sometimes a Clear Shinefinity Glaze with a touch of warmth 09/3 is all you need to deliver the pop of brightness and salon-fresh finish your client is looking for.
Brass-Free Blonde Formulas
LIGHTEN
Blondor Multi Blonde
Welloxon Perfect Developer 6% (20 volume)
TONE
Color Touch 10/3 + 10/6
Color Touch Emulsion 1.9% (6 volume)
ARTIST: @hail.does.hair.
LIGHTEN
BlondorPlex Multi Blonde
Welloxon Perfect Creme Developer 6% (20 volume)
GLOSS
Color Touch 10/81 + 8/81 + 9/86
Color Touch Emulsion 1.9% (6 volume)
ARTIST: @lyndsthehairartist
LIGHTEN
Wella Professionals BlondorPlex
Welloxon Perfect Developer 6% (20 volume)
ROOT SMUDGE
Color Touch 6/0
Color Touch Emulsion 1.9% (6 volume)
TONE
Color Touch 9/01 + 9/96
Color Touch Emulsion 1.9% (6 volume)
ARTIST: @stylinzteph
LIGHTEN
Blondor Multi Blonde
Welloxon Perfect 6% (20 volume)
ROOTS
Color Touch 5/0
Color Touch Emulsion 1.9% (6 volume)
MIDS
Color Touch 7/1
Color Touch Emulsion 1.9% (6 volume)
ENDS
Color Touch 10/6 + 10/03 + 10/81
Color Touch Emulsion 1.9% (6 volume)
ARTIST: @jess_acolabsalon
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