Hair Color
Creativity is at the core of what we do. To help you stay inspired, we created a hub with all your haircolor needs. Our blog covers the latest trends, formulas, professional tips and inspiration.
10.13.2019
Your Guide to Wella’s Hair Color Charts
Color is at the core of Wella Professionals: the No. 1 Salon Color Brand in the World*. We understand that color is the most creative expression for a hairdresser, which requires precision and skill.
While we can't reveal every secret of the trade, we’re offering a deeper look into how Wella color charts can elevate your color techniques. With our guide, refresh your approach to choosing the right shades and understand how to match clients to colors to enhance their unique features and deliver stunning results.
So, if you're seeking a quick refresher on which colors suit which clients best, read on for insights on maximizing the color chart. It’s an opportunity to fine-tune your craft and explore how to help clients preview a shade before fully committing.
And, of course, don’t forget to stock up on top-tier color protection products to keep your clients’ shades looking vibrant. From color-protecting shampoos to conditioning mousses and color-refresh conditioners, browse our hair color protection and care products.
*Based on Wella Master Brand USD sales on the 2022 Salon Hair Care Study for the hair coloring products category published by Kline.
1. The Color Theory
To predict the outcome of every color transformation, you rely on a simple equation:
Hair’s starting point + color chosen = end result
The 'color chosen' is the desired hue, while the 'starting point' is a combination of the client's hair history and underlying pigment. Let’s break each down:
Hair History
As a colorist, you assess the processes the hair has already undergone. Has it been colored before? When and with what products? Details about your client’s styling routine and lifestyle, such as frequent swimming, can influence the formulas that will work best and help you determine if the hair is in good condition for a lightener.
Underlying pigment
When coloring hair—especially with a lightener like Blondor, is used – some of the underlying pigments in your hair may be exposed. some of the hair’s underlying pigments are exposed. Understanding this helps you decide whether to work with the existing pigment or neutralize it to achieve the perfect shade.
2. The Lightening Curve
The Lightening Curve is a visual guide for colorists to determine the ideal shade based on the underlying pigment in their client’s hair. It shows the hair’s tonal shifts as it lightens, providing a framework to select colors that enhance or correct these tones.
Example:
If your client has a natural deep brunette base, such as a 3/, and they’re looking to add subtle highlights, you’d lift sections of their hair to a 6/.
This process brightens the underlying pigment and creates a beautiful foundation for a deep caramel toner.
On the other hand, if they have a natural golden level 8/ but are dreaming of a platinum look, you’d need to lift their hair to a very pale yellow, around a level 10/.
This lightened base can then be toned to neutralize any remaining yellow, achieving the desired platinum finish. And with that, we move on to the next crucial step…
3. The Color Circle
While the Lightening Curve offers insight into hair depth and shade, the Color Circle is a tool for toning and correcting. Based on color theory, it helps you select the toner needed to balance tones. Colors opposite each other on the wheel neutralize each other, while adjacent colors combine to create new hues.
Example:
if your client’s blonde hair has yellow, warm undertones but they’re after a cool, icy finish, you’d use the Color Circle to find the color opposite yellow—purple.
By adding a touch of violet to your formula, you can counteract those yellow tones.
A small amount of violet is all it takes for a subtle color correction that shifts the tone toward a cooler, more refined blonde.
4. The Numbering System
With an understanding of the Lightening Curve and Color Circle, it’s time to look at Wella’s universal numbering system for hair color formulas. This system, used across all Wella color products - from Koleston Perfect's permanent colors to the demi-permanent Color Touch- ensures consistency.
Each number in the system is divided by a stroke: the number before indicates the depth (how light or dark the hair is), while the number after denotes tone (what color you’ll see).
For example, to achieve the look below, you may reach a depth of 4/, 5/, or 6/ then add the tone of a red-violet /5 resulting in a rich, radiant finish, depending on the undertones. This system lets you precisely match the shade number to achieve flawless results.
Image Credit: @cassandra_foehr
5. The Best Color Curating Tools
Colorists have various tools to find the perfect blend for each client. A traditional color chart or hair swatch book is valuable during consultations. But there’s also the digital tools as the Wella Digital Shade Chart, available via Wella App for iPhones and Android devices. This tool provides every shade available and offers a realistic hair simulation in different lighting, giving you and your clients a preview of their new color.
